Scent Memory
Issue No. 19
Scent Memory
& finding a (Non-Toxic) Fragrance
Ah, the nostalgia of a familiar, forgotten scent! The kind that instantly transports you back to a specific place and time. There is nothing more emotionally powerful than scent memory. In fact, neuroscience points to the reason for this. It turns out, smell takes a fast track to the region in our brain related to emotion and memory (hippocampus! amygdala!), so it’s no wonder that scent, memory, and emotion are so closely intertwined. (It’s also no wonder that fragrance and “scent branding” has become big business, but that’s a topic for another time.)
With Memorial Day Weekend already here, I’m finding myself giddy with excitement about the summer we have stretched out before us! I’m convinced this is going to be an “on” summer (i.e. a really great one) full of memories I’ll want to cherish forever. So, after years of intentionally avoiding fragrance, I’ve been on the hunt for a scent to go with said memories. The tricky thing about perfume, cologne, and fragrance in general is that they can be highly toxic. In fact, study after study shows that synthetic chemicals used in “fragrance” can be allergens, hormone disruptors, asthma triggers, neurotoxins, and even carcinogens. Who knew that the innocuous-seeming descriptor fragrance (parfum) on ingredient labels could be so potentially damaging?
Fragrance, it turns out, is a catch-all term that can mask thousands of different types of chemicals, many of them harmful bad actors. So, when you see fragrance (parfum) listed on a product, there is no way of knowing whether or not it’s made up of synthetic or natural compounds. The obvious solution would be to require companies to disclose what individual ingredients are going into the fragrance (parfum), but, here in the US, we can’t do that because the FDA isn’t allowed to force a company to share “trade secrets.” Since fragrance formulas are precise, complex blends of natural and synthetic chemical compounds, they are protected as proprietary “trade secrets.” Ugh. Even unscented products can contain fragrance ingredients (a company might lightly offset an unpleasant smell with fragrance to mask it), so look for fragrance-free rather than unscented when buying detergent, personal care products, and even cosmetics.
It’s for this reason that I’ve written off fragrance for years, including most fragrance-containing products (which are seemingly everywhere!). So, when Bella Hadid launched her “essential oils based” perfume brand last week (aptly named Orebella), I was newly optimistic about the future of non-toxic fragrance. A closer look at her “good for you” formulas, though, and you’ll find fragrance (parfum) is listed as the third ingredient. I asked the cosmetic chemist I work with to review them and here is where the products netted out. Punchline: still toxic (though TikTok doesn’t seem to care). It’s especially disappointing given that Orebella’s marketing touts “hydrating, alcohol-free & elevated with essential oils,” making it seem like you’re making a healthier choice.
image via Orebella
With all that negativity aside, here are a few safe, non-toxic fragrance companies that are worth trying.
Henry Rose is the first EWG-verified (!!!) and Cradle to Cradle Certified collection of fine fragrances. I haven’t personally tried, but it’s on my list. They’re designed for both genders and the reviews sound great. I have the sampler in my cart and am curious to see if the Queens & Monsters hype is real.
Nantucket Perfume, formerly Nantucket Natural Oils, has been in business for almost forty years! Their formulas are made using pure, natural oils and without alcohol or synthetic chemicals of any kind. The coolest thing about them? They recreate (typically toxic) designer scents using nothing but pure essential oils. I’ve worn their Ibiza Hippie and Bond Scent of Peace replicas for years and can attest that they smell just like the real thing! In my cart right now are Shalimar (an ode to my mom!), Santal 33 (I’ve always loved Le Labo but known it’s toxic), and a replica of my husband’s cologne that I can’t disclose without getting in serious trouble. Each perfume comes in chicly-packaged little glass bottles that last longer than you think!
Detox Market has a few great options including this one from Rahua. I love the smell of Palo Santo and can’t wait to give it a try. I’m not crazy about coconut as a scent but if it doesn’t bother you, this one looks nice as well.
I’m also intrigued by these from Linne Botanicals. I just bought their Protect Sunscreen yesterday (thank you @mia_rigden for the rec!) and it’s on sale right now (what isn’t?) for 30% off. I’m working on a sun care post next (after a handful of you asked me to - nothing makes me happier) so will be sure to report back.
With that - I hope you’re having a wonderful weekend kicking off a summer that’s sure to be full of scent memory! If you have a clean fragrance you wear and love, please share it (comments, chat, or DM are all fair game!). Would love to build on this list with you. ☀️
